Preparing for a new Kitten

Safety

Look for places a kitten can get into (holes in walls, fireplaces, etc.) and put barriers in front.
Look for personal items that they might hurt themselves with – pens, needles, scissors, knives, all dangerous!  Protect your cords too – especially electronic ones – they love to play with them.
Secure breakables (glasses, vases, etc.) on places they can easily reach.
Look for toxic plants (http://www.petmd.com/cat/emergency/poisoning-toxicity/e_ct_poisonous_plants) and get them out of reach (or ideally gone!)

Litter boxes

 You will need at least 1 per floor that that kitten will be on.  If you already have a cat; you should have one more litter box than cats.

Litter

Unscented, no clay litter is important for kittens.  They can easily eat it or breath it and that’s horrible for them.  For kittens, we recommend: World’s Best or Swheat Scoop

Food

 We will provide either wet food or raw food on your choice. We’ll let you know the wet food brand your kitten prefers and you can start with some of that.  If you want to transition to a new food; please do it slowly to avoid upsetting their stomach.

Toys!

Toys are ridiculously important for Kittens and Bengals in particular.  Get a variety and see what they (and you) like!  We’ve started making our own, but there are lots of cool things out there.

Treats

 Treats aren’t that important at this stage, but they can be fun.

Food / Water Dishes

You need at least one of each.  If you are feeding wet/raw food than they won’t drink a lot of water – this is completely normal! Cats who are fed dry food drink a lot and that’s not normal.

Bed

Buy a soft bed to lie in – usually, they want a much larger bed than you think!  Heated beds are a plus.

Brush

You will want to have a brush (a soft brush; their soft fur doesn’t need to be brushed so it’s more for enjoyment).

Nail Clippers

You want this style: https://www.amazon.ca/Ecloud-Shop-Clipper-Grooming-Trimmer/dp/B00N4RAYB6/  You can get them in all pet stores.

Feliway

it’s a calming spray which is a good way to help them adjust.  There is a diffuser or just a spray.  Amazon sells it, so do most vets.

Scratching posts

You need to get at least one scratching post.  We have 6 in our house; however, 3 of them are also cat trees.

Cat Trees

We highly recommend cat trees – specifically Armarkat Trees – they are more expensive, but they last much longer.  Even the kittens love spending time in the tree as young as they are.  Here is our current favourite tree.  Don’t get a knockoff (Go Pet or something similar) – the quality is so much worse.

Bonding with a Bengal

What’s the best way to bond with your Bengal?

Playing

Bengals are play-oriented. They are active, energetic cats who love to play. The fastest way to a Bengal’s heart is by playing with them!

Here are some quick suggestions:

  • Get a straw and wiggle it back and forth on the ground by their paws.
  • Make a ball out of tinfoil, wrap a string around it and then drag the ball around the room.
  • Get a long feather (or on a stick) and get them to jump in the air (ribbons are good too).

    Be Gentle and Non-Threatening

    Our daughter is constantly asking us why Xena is afraid of her, the simple answer is that she is loud and not so gentle. Cats learn and remember threatening situations. They pick up on your body language and queues (even when you don’t intend to – why do you think they “know” when it’s time for the vet?).

Constantly trying to get near them, trying to pet them (when they aren’t ready for it) can be considered threatening / aggressive; especially when they don’t know you!

Don’t Punish!

Punishment for bad behaviour is not the way to go and usually only teaches a cat not to do something when you are around to punish!  The other thing that it teaches them is that you are the cause of negative things! Not a good way to bond!

Don’t make the first move

Which leads us to not making the first move. When you go to them; try to pick them up and push yourself upon them – it can be scary! Big hands, big clumsy body and feet! Once they are used to you and your presence it’s different; however until then, let them come to you.

Let them come to you

Shinobi, our big boy, will never let you pick him up.  If you pick him up and put him on your lap – he’s gone as soon as you let him go. However, if you find a nice spot; encourage him to come join you and he’s happy to lie on top for hours.

Be Around

If you want them to be comfortable around you – let them get to know you, your scent and your behaviours – i.e. be there! The more they are used to you and what you are going to do and how you are going to behave, the more comfortable they will be with you.

Bribe em

Most cats are willing to be bought with treats (and yes, playing is a treat!); but in this case we mean food.  Find a treat they really like (Shinobi goes nuts for Temptations treats – we know they aren’t great for him; so they are very limited;  but, in small amounts, it’s a great treat for him!) and use the treats to interact and bring them close to you.  You can even build an E.T. type trail to lead them to you!

Introducing a Kitten

Introducing a kitten to household of existing cats can be a stressful time for you, the kitten and the cats.  Doing it careful and slowly is the key to reducing stress for everyone.

First of all, it’s really rare for the kitten to be upset about the new living situation; it’s really much more about the other cats – this is their territory and their environment that this kitten just invaded.  “That’s my spot! Mine!”.  So most of the effort needs to be concentrated on the current cats.

Isolation

You need to start by isolating the kitten from the rest of the house.  First you aren’t going to overwhelm them with too much to see / explore at once; but also to prevent the other cats from seeing them too soon.  The longer they go without seeing each other; the easier it will be between them when the time comes.  Overtime, increase that space.  Initially you could start them in an en suite bathroom and then allow them access to the bed and bathroom (or something similar).

What’s That Smell?

Cats are very smell oriented and smell driven.  As soon as they notice a new scent they will try to figure it out; especially from another animal.  It’s really important that the cats do not see the kitten for as long as possible.  The longer they don’t know it’s a new kitten, the more they will accept the new smell as just a part of the environment.

Spread the smell around!  If the kitten came with a blanket – get the cats with the blanket.  As the kitten puts their smell on various new things (blankets, etc) – spread those around.  A good thing to do is to swap spaces between the kitten and the cats.  Put the cats in the isolated space and the kitten in the rest of the house.  Try to avoid having them see each other!  Let the smells permeate so that they are swapping scents.

See No Evil

The next stage is to introduce them through a door.  Play with the kitten under the door so their paw comes through and make sure that the other cats notice.  This is their opportunity to link smell with something else; but to not see it.

Untouchable

The next stage is to introduce them face to face but in a controlled way.  Ideally through a screen or mesh.  We like to use a show cage or a screen between them to do the initial introduction.

Don’t worry if they hiss; it’s completely normal.  The senior cats will almost always use hissing and paw swipes to express dominance over the new kitten. By introducing it this way you are avoiding physical attacks and getting them use to each other.

The Big Moment

This is the final stage – the face-to-face, all out rumble between the kitten and the cats!  Winner take all!  Or more likely some hissing, paw swiping, the kitten submits and the cat walks away victorious.  This is totally normal and expected.  Cats must establish their own hierarchy – so let them interact and fight a little; however, there is, obviously, a point where you need to step in and protect the kitten (just don’t do it right away).